Coolant leaking from an engine indicates a serious problem and one that can lead to expensive repairs if the causative factor is not diagnosed and remedied without delay. The radiator is not actually part of the engine proper, but it is the most common place for a leak in the coolant system to transpire. Even if coolant appears to be coming from the engine, it may still be the result of a radiator leak, and the coolant is simply being blown onto the engine by the cooling fan. Such a possibility should be eliminated before continuing on with a coolant leak diagnostic inspection of the engine. If it is the radiator, and yours is a late model car, you can probably get a new replacement for 2 or $300 at the local parts store. If you can wait a few days for delivery, Rockauto.com is a good source and usually has the best prices of on-line parts dealers. Focusing now on the engine, the first objective is to identify the exact locality of the leak. The most common place for a coolant leak is the water pump or hoses connecting between it and the radiator. Use a flash light to inspect these areas first. Check heater hoses too, and sometimes there is a heater bypass that routes coolant through an electrically actuated valve mounted on the top or side of the engine. If the hoses all look good, further inspection around the water pump would be the next step. Some newer cars actually have the water pump built inside the engine and special tools and knowledge are required to access it. If was is leaking in this area, and you still want to further diagnose the problem yourself, a good place to start would be the service and repair manual for your make an model. (Mfg. Manuals are a little pricey, but a tool well worth the price tag if you plan to do your own repair work-see helminc.com. Incidentally, the average water pump R&R at a dealer will cost more than $1,000 on most newer cars.) If the leak is not coming from around the water pump, the next thing to check would be the freeze plugs. They will be small indentations about 1 1/2 inches in diameter located along the sides of the engine block. They can rust out, although this is rare these days since antifreeze generally prevents such corrosion. Replacing a freeze plug, assuming you can get at it without pulling the engine, is not a big deal. From this point onward, the possible leak scenarios become more devastating. If the leak originates where the engine head(s) attaches Category:Home › Other • Pomegranates: A newly discovered superfood • Where did the joke why did the chicken cross the road come from and why is it funny? • Can mothers diagnosed with bipolar disorder make good parents? • Spiritual evolution of human consciousness • Tips for getting a college basketball scholarship • Living with Pseudotumor cerebri (PTC) • Caring for the caregiver • Technologys impact on society
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